Sometimes it is hard to find the time and the focus to sit down and write. Not because anything really important is going on, but just because there are an infinite amount of distractions in this life and writing takes focus and energy. So hopefully I can focus enough to get through all the amazing things that happened this week. Also, sidenote: sorry for all the car pictures. I just have a thing for amazing old mint condition cars and there were a bzillion of them at the Royal Car Museum so I took a lot of pictures of them. You all have to understand my interests and that is one of them. Also, I am a Humanities TA so I went mosaic crazy as well on the pictures I posted to Facebook today. Just forgive me and understand it as like a dream come true and I could not get enough. I was basically "starstruck" by mosaics so look at them like you look at pictures of celebrities, just saying.
Last Saturday was a big, fun field trip to visit sacred Christian sites with lots of cool history. I could have toured them all day (probably because I am my father's child) but most other people got bored of them pretty fast for some reason. I might have to go back to Madaba at least (plus they had cool Christian souvenirs like Nativity sets or Tree of Life mosaics that I really want and will probably be cheaper than Jerusalem or Israel). We started off by visiting Machareus which is the ruins of the ancient Herodian temple where John the Baptist was beheaded. There wasn't much left to see, but you can see why they build a fort-palace there. You can see for miles in any direction and protect the fortress from pretty much anything. Romans did like to protect their trade routes/collect taxes from anyone doing the trading within their empire. The Dead Sea was below the mountain. The barren landscape surround the area made me feel like I was in Nevada or northern Arizona around Lake Powell or something. There was not much happening there by means of plant or animal life. There were some bedouin camps set up nearby but that was about it. There was small, little remnants of wall so you can see where the palace used to be. There were two forlorn pillars marking the ancient entrance to the fortress but that's about it. Otherwise it was a mess of rock and dust. It was hard to picture it during ancient times. But maybe that is a fitting tribe to the prophet's memory. Kind of like God was sad about such a tragedy and so left the area barren and desolate to show that. I found it fitting. There was a giant cistern in the middle of the ruins that we got to climb down into. There was an old rickety, wood ladder that descended down into the pit and that shook as you went down so that made it exciting. After we got to the bottom it was fun to see the amazing acoustics of a giant pit in the ground. A bunch of people sang a church hymn in great harmony. After climbing back out, the girls also showed us how the woman danced to trick Herod into beheading John the Baptist. I am sure "Turn Down for What" was her song of choice for the dance (if you have never heard the song, ask Adam my brother about it because it is one of his favorites). We got to climb around the mountain and look for caves after that and there were many. All of them at one point or another were used for water storage since I don't think they get much naturally there.
After leaving this place, we headed to the infamous Mount Nebo. They weren't kidding when they referred to it as a mountain in the Bible, it's quite large compared to everything around it. You could see forever, kind of like when you drive up on the rim heading to the cabin. From the barren desert of where we were, we could see the rest of the desert and far off in the distance we could see lush greenery (at least by comparison). It wasn't hard to picture Moses or any of the children of Israel for that matter looking towards the land with longing and regret because of their previous actions. Wandering around in the desert must have been very exhausting, although I still find it beautiful. There were also restoring an old Byzantine church while we were there that sits right on top of the mountain. It is filled with beautiful mosaics, however, it wasn't yet open to the public when we went, so now I will have to go back another day in a month or so to see them all again. They did have some other mosaics there that were really awesome and intricate. I can't imagine the immense sense of patience that those people must have had. I lack it, that's all I know for sure.
Next, we headed to Madaba which is probably one of my favorite places in the whole world right now. For one thing, not all the houses had to be white like in Amman. There were flashes of color and individuality. There was also such an immense amount of history in each building and I could have stayed there forever studying them. There were buildings from before Christ, Roman times, Byzantine times, Ottoman times, modern times, etc. It was apparent everywhere you turned to see all the different eras of architecture and art. It was a sight to behold. We visited a church with the most amazing mosaics I have ever seen. It was the church of St. George (like the British one who slayed the dragon) and had mosaics everywhere you looked. Half the floor was taken up by a giant map of early Christian times (like really early). You could see the churches in Jerusalem and Egypt and Jordan as well as people fishing in the Dead Sea. It was amazing! Each wall was covered in mosaics remembering various Saints or telling stories of Christ's life. It was a peaceful, quiet place. I could have sat there all day contemplating my beliefs, but they only gave us about 15 minutes. Then we toured some other places filled with mosaics of various things. They also were an excellent example of the layering that goes on here in these lands. You could see the bottom layer of where the Greeks built and then where the Romans built on top of them and then were the Christians built on top of them and then the Ottomans on top of them and then modern on top of them. Different areas were excavated down to different eras, it kind of looks like a giant multi-layered cake. That doesn't do it justice, but might be the best description that I can give. The history itself of this land just blows my mind. America, and Arizona in particular, are so new. Nothing is much older than a couple hundred years tops (except for the ancient Native American ruins and I do find those fascinating as well). The dry desert air keeps everything in great condition so that we can still enjoy those amazing works of art today. We also visited a mosaic shop where we could see how they make the mosaics using the traditional or newer methods. I think Ashley would find her dream career there if she ever had a chance to visit. They have a whole school devoted to the art of mosaic making. Madaba was a wonderful place and I am looking forward to catching a bus back there in the next couple weeks to pick up souvenirs and see more of the sites. It also has a different feel and atmosphere to it because 1/3 of the population is Christian. I love Muslims and Islam, a lot, but it was nice to feel a little change.
That was my exciting field trip for the week, I will have another one for next week to write because tomorrow we are headed to Wadi Mujib which apparently is similar to the Narrows in Zion's Canyon. I am beyond excited. Hiking and swimming are two of my favorite activities. Don't worry, I will be wearing a hat, rash guard, and lots of sunscreen. I can't afford to be sunsick the rest of the week.
This week a lot of other exciting things also happened. For one, I am getting better and feeling more comfortable having basic conversation with people. Talking with taxi drivers is the best. Maybe because they can't get away if they can't understand you, so they try their hardest to and help you to understand them as well. They all have such amazing stories and experiences to share. Most of them have lived in Jordan their whole lives but are of Palestinian origin. They always dream and talk of the day of when they will be able to return back to their homeland. When their families fled from Palestine, most of them had nothing. They entered Jordan as refugees and eeked out meager lives living in squalid conditions in refugee camps for awhile. Eventually, Jordan gave them citizenship and allowed them to live a semblance of a normal life. However, they still can't do everything. There is some discrimination here in Jordan, at least a little bit. I'm not saying everyone is guilty or that it is a terrible problem, but we might have a similar issue with Mexicans in Arizona. A lot of people view them as outsiders or lower than themselves, like one human can really be above another. Palestinians often work in lower class jobs (like taxi drivers) and can never get high positions in business, government, or the army. Only Jordanians can do that. I find it interesting to view class and racial systems in a different land where I am removed from it. It gives me new perspective on the Hispanic population in Arizona and the problems that we are having there with that huge topic. Anyway, taxi drivers are more than willing to talk and are great conversationists. It has helped my Arabic and confidence a lot to ride with them and chat with them. I also have talked with some shop owners who were nice as well and some students up on the University of Jordan. I feel like a missionary again because I just walk up and talk with random people on the street. The people here are nice though and love to talk. They try their best to keep the conversation at a level I can understand and we use a lot of gestures to get more difficult points across. Each day we have homework questions that we are supposed to ask people out on the street to aid in our class discussion the next day. It is interesting to hear people's opinions and how fast and willing they are able to give them. People in America are much more reserved generally and harder to crack open. It is refreshing to have much more open people. Even when you disagree with them on a point, they don't freeze up or try to persuade you. They let you have your position and they have theirs. You can share information with each other but understand you will keep your beliefs and your position. Staunch Democrats and Republicans or political people of any sort would do well to learn this strategy of respect even in differences. It is nicer than the vicious and useless mudslinging and brawling of current American politics. This past week we discussed the Palestinian/Israeli conflict everyday. It was cool to see the opposite side of everything from what we usually see or hear in America. I have to say I find both sides guilty of terrible atrocities. Neither side is innocent or completely right or wrong. I feel for the Palestinian people and their plight. I think of what I would do if I was driven from my home and forced to live out my life in a different country and circumstance or living under a security state that monitors your every move and controls every opportunity or future you might have. Of life stuck behind the wall, like a caged animal. On the other hand, I can see Israeli stance trying to find stability and protection after the Holocaust and losing so many people to such a terrible event. I can understand their fear of having that repeat and their want for a strong military to ensure the safety and security of their people. After living so long at the bottom of the social systems of Europe, I can understand their hunger for their own country and their desire for their own system. I will get off my soapbox now, but I get both sides and I refuse to say one is right and one is wrong. Trying to find a solution this week in class was tricky and I don't know that there will be one in the near (or even far) future.
This week I also had the best kebob I have ever had in my life. They were made in this little, shady street cart downtown. I was a little afraid that I would get sick later from eating it, but the taste alone would have been worth it. They were out of this world, I will definitely be heading back soon. I am getting used to the different sense of hospitality that Jordanians have. They refuse to let you sit and talk with them for long before feeding you and giving you drink. If you try to refuse, it is like a mortal affront to them. It is considered extremely rude. I mean sure people in America are generous. But we don't insist on feeding every person that we talk with. Also, once you get to know a shop or restaurant owner, they start to give you food for free. These are people that are struggling to support their families but because they see you as a friend, they give you what you ordered with no or extremely reduced cost. Way different from how restaurants work in America, I can tell you that. It is nice though. Relationships mean a lot to the people here more than almost anything else. It is an adjustment from America where only money really does the talking. Here relationships and connections mean everything and make all the difference. It is a very different dichotomy and way of thinking and living. In one of my culture classes they described it as the bee and the spider. Americans are the bees of the world - they are always busy, always looking to get stuff done, rushing from one task to the next. We work for the benefit of all, if we find something good we try to share it with other so that it can benefit everyone else in the hive. We spend all our time work and improving what we think needs to be improved. Life is a list of to-do lists and schedules. On the other hand, Jordanians are like spiders. They build intricate and delicate webs. All of their time is spent strengthening the individual strands of their webs so that they can catch all the food that they can. Sharing information with other spiders on the best places to build web would endanger their way of life so they take care in what they share. If you end up being attached to one of their strands though, they will do everything in their power to make sure you are a secure and steadfast strand. Those relationships mean everything to them. With no web, spiders could not eat or survive. I find it an interesting comparison and one that I am seeing in my daily interactions with people here.
Let's see, what else? I have decided Mormons should learn from Muslims. They have no fear about sharing their religion or asking right at the outset why you haven't joined their religion yet. They are amazed that we live so many standards as Mormons. They view us as basically "dry" Muslims, all we would have to do is recite the shahada and we would be good to go! We already live the right lifestyle. But even after you refuse them and say you are interested in discussing religion and not converting, they are still your friend. Nothing really changes. In fact, they continue to invite you to join them in Islamic activities or join their religion at every opportunity. I don't even find it the least bit annoying because I know they mean so well. They truly feel they are showing the most love for me that they can by inviting me. My salvation is more important than annoying me, offending me, or scaring me away. I think that would be an interesting approach to missionary work within the Mormon faith. A lot more boldness but also a lot more love. i love visiting mosques and seeing such dedicated adherence to their religion. Youth spend three days or more a week learning to recite the Qur'an and how to faithfully live their beliefs. It is amazing to see how much more dedication they have than a lot of the people in America that I know. It has been a great example to me of always living my beliefs and looking at each opportunity to serve or attend church activities or services as a privilege and a blessing and not as a checklist or a burden.
Ok, I know I probably already wrote too much. But let me just say one more thing. The tariffs to get foreign products into the US I find slightly annoying right now. They have held me back from so much amazing food, snacks, and treats. Like England has these "Digestive" cookies (nothing healthy about them like fiber or anything, why they have that name I do not know) but they are simply delicious. I buy them at least once a week if not more. They also have Canadian "Smarties" here, they are kind of like M&M's but bigger and better. Also, the chocolate here is not the fake, waxy stuff of Hershey's but legit and delectable. Everything here is much fresher like the fruit and bread. It makes a big difference in taste (however it also goes bad a ton faster so I can see why American companies do use preservatives and such things but sacrificing taste might not be worth it). The fruit just tastes so much better, like you just picked it fresh of the tree each and every time. It will be hard to adjust back to the American supermarket fruit or bread. Also the sauces they put on the meat or rice here are so savory and so flavorful. Americans just putting butter on everything is kind of sad in comparison. That being said, I do miss cereal and milk at decent prices, so I will give America that win haha. I might have to visit Trader Joe's or special markets a lot more often when I come back though so I can continue to get some of the food and stuff that I have started to get used to here in Jordan.
If you made it to the end of this, congratulations and thanks for putting up with me! Thanks for being such amazing friends and family, I love you all!
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